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The New Vintage Kitchen – Spring-Dug Parsnip Purée with Seared Sea Scallops Dorothy’s New Vintage Kitchen: Right after maple syrup, the second New England crop of the year is spring-dug parsnips, and now’s the time to find them: Published: Apr 19

Parsnips are a bit finicky to germinate and grow, but they are well-worth the effort because they keep well in the north for use all winter. Many farmers “store” a certain portion of their crop in the ground to winter over for a spring harvest. Why? Spring-dug parsnips are sweeter and milder than those picked in the autumn; during their winter sleep, the starchiness is replaced with sugars, they become a bit softer, and loose some of their intense flavor. But you have to be quick, or the parsnip plants will bolt in order to set their seed stalk, and the root will become tough and woody. It’s seasonal eating at its best and most fleeting.

The winter’s nap tames the flavor

      I have to say, I’m not usually thrilled by parsnips in the fall or winter, their flavor is a bit too heavy for me, as it was for my mom, so she didn’t cook them often. But, they are one of my husband’s favorites so I do make them, and hide them from myself in stews and soups.

      But the spring parsnips are much nicer! Here, I’ve made a purée and mixed them equal parts with potatoes to soften the flavor even more. You can use just parsnips here, double the amount, or any ratio you like. It would even be delicious with three parts potatoes and one of parsnips.

Let’s warm them up!

      They also deserved some warm spices after their cold winter’s sleep, but not a lot, so rather than add spices to the purée, infusing the milk gives more subtle notes to the dish. You can use any “milk” you like, but something creamy like coconut milk works well. Yes, you can also use light cream here, but I would not use a heavier cream. Canned evaporated skim milk would be a good substitution for the coconut milk or cream if you want to avoid even more saturated fat. Make the purée as thick or thin as you like, it’s your dish.

Don’t forget the chives

      I’ve garnished with beautiful spring chives from the garden, some flavorful paprika oil, and some lovely little edible pansies. It’s finally spring after all!

Spring-Dug Parsnip Purée

• 1 lb. spring-dug parsnips, peeled and diced
• 1 lb. Yukon gold potatoes, peeled and diced
• 1 cup canned coconut milk, light, or evaporated skim milk
• 2 or 3 star anise
• 1 bay leaf
• 1 small cinnamon stick
• 1 large garlic clove, crushed
• ¼ stick vegan or dairy butter
• Fresh spring chives
• Smoked paprika oil 
• 2 or 3 cups of pea shoots or arugula

      Peel the parsnips and potatoes, keeping them separate. In a saucepan, cover the parsnips with cold water, add about a teaspoon of salt, and bring to a boil. Once they have boiled hard for five minutes, add the potatoes, reduce the heat to a simmer, and cook until both vegetables are very soft.

      While they are cooking, combine the milk with the spices and garlic and bring to a simmer, then reduce the heat to low and let the flavors infuse. Make the scallops, below.

      When ready, drain the vegetables, reserving some of the cooking liquid. Put the vegetables through a food mill, or mash very fine. Because there are potatoes here, don’t use a food processor or blender or you’ll get a gummy mixture.

      Pick out the spices and garlic with a slotted spoon from the milk, and add a little at a time to the purée. If you want the purée even smoother, add a bit of the reserved cooking liquid. You can also make this solely with the cooking liquid, it’s very flavorful. Salt and pepper to taste, and add the butter, mixing well.

      To serve, place the pea shoots on a large platter, then pour the purée in the center, overlapping the shoots so some will wilt a bit from the heat. Top with the scallops, sprinkle with some spring chives, and drizzle with the paprika oil.

Searing Sea Scallops

If you want to get a lovely sear on a scallop, always check with the fish expert that the scallops are ‘dry’ that is not packed in a liquid preservative. Most sea scallops in grocery store and packed in this solution, which waterlogs them making it very difficult to get any color in the cooking process. It also contains a preservative you don’t need, and they are apt to be less fresh. All good reasons to buy the real deal. It is also important to pat the scallops very dry before searing.

• 1 lb. dry sea scallops
• Olive oil
• Flour for dusting

      Make these while the parsnips and potatoes are cooking, they take just a few minutes.

      Pat the scallops dry, remove the muscle, and season with salt and pepper on both sides. Dust with flour.

      Heat a heavy skillet, and add olive oil to cover the bottom. Place the scallops in the heated skillet and let sear for two to three minutes, peeking after two minutes to check on the progress. Turn, and cook another two minutes or so. Remove from the pan and keep warm.

Smoked Paprika Oil

Combine 1 tsp. hot or sweet smoked paprika with 4 tbsp. extra virgin olive oil and whisk well. Drizzle over anything that needs a little kick!

We are trained to look for our seasonal roadside vendors of wild foraged foods. We often find the same person selling the same delicacies year after year. Always a bargain, and always fresh.

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